Verona (within the territory of the Republic of Venice)."Without health certificates which they had got at Trent they could nothave entered the city, although there was no rumour of any danger ofpest; but it is the custom (in order to cheat us of the few pennies theycost). We went to see the cathedral, where Montaigne deemed thebehaviour of the men at High Mass very peculiar; they chatted even inthe choir of the church, standing up, with their hats on and their backsturned to the altar, and did not seem to pay any attention to theservice except on the elevation of the Host. There were organs andviolins to accompany the mass.... [Pg 321]We went to see the castle and wereshown all over by the lieutenant in charge. The [Venetian] governmentkeeps sixty soldiers there, rather, according to what they said toMontaigne, against the people of the city than against foreigners. Wealso saw a congregation of monks called the Gesuati of St. Jerome [notJesuits]. They are not priests; they neither say mass nor preach; mostof them are ignorant, but they carry on a business of distillinglemon-flower water, both in Verona and elsewhere. They are dressed inwhite, with little white caps, and a dark brown gown over it;good-looking young men." They visited the Ghetto (Jews' quarter), andthe Roman amphitheatre, which Montaigne thought the noblest building hehad ever seen.
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